Non-gendered jewellery versatile enough to suit every occasion and last forever

Like many people I do love my jewellery; it was always rings for me but earrings — of a sort — came a close second. Unlike my rings which I would change everyday, my earrings pretty much stayed the same, sometimes for years at a time. 

This idea of wearing ‘permanent’ jewellery is a popular concept right now, particularly the idea of having a piece of jewellery practically welded to your body, but while you can remove your everyday pieces many of us don’t so it becomes basically the same thing. 

DISCOVER GENNUU

New Singapore brand Gennuu by local creative Chantelle Huan fits into this new movement. The pieces are simple but stylish, affordable but also sturdy enough to be worn on the daily, or basically ‘permanently’. 

“Gennuu was founded with the intention to create jewellery pieces that are stylish, affordable yet of great quality, versatile enough to suit all occasions while allowing our wearers to be able to express their own personality and vibe,” explains Chantelle.  

The founder and designer of Gennuu, Chantelle Huan

According to Chantelle, the brand name — pronounced ‘gen’ and ‘u’ — is linked to being ‘genuine’ and ‘generational’ with the ‘u’ representing the ‘you’ of the wearer. “At its core, it encompasses two main values that make up its identity: Genuine — a brand that is 100% genuine in what we design and curate – considering intention, function, and style. Generational — a brand that values openness, with hopes to build a community of fashionable go-getters willing to share and live experiences that transcend generations. The ‘U’ in Gennuu represents ‘you’ — Gennuu is a brand that is made for you,” Chantelle explains.

“Since I was young, I have always been interested in fashion and often took on roles such as costume designer for school activities. My interest in fashion also meant a constantly growing jewellery collection,” she says. 

“As time passed, I realised I would only re-wear a fraction of my pieces — often those with colours and styles that were easy to match and stack. 

“This sparked the motivation to create Gennuu. I wanted to reduce the number of pieces people needed to purchase, while retaining and even increasing the number of styles people could wear from those pieces. 

“Hence, Gennuu was born as a brand that emphasises on a core collection of essential pieces, with add-ons that are mixable, stackable and can be worn in multiple styles.”

The new brand has been strongly influenced by Chantelle’s personal style: “My personal style is a mix of classic, hardware pieces as well as more elaborate statement pieces, often in varying tones of silver and gold.”

Chantelle says that she always wears mismatched earrings, a concept that she factored into the design concept for Gennuu, alongside stacking and layering jewellery pieces. 

“One consistent style of mine is to always wear mismatched earrings. I honestly cannot remember the last time I wore the same pair of earrings on both ears! I always pair longer form pieces with shorter forms or studs, and tend to stack my stud piercings. Necklace and chain stacking has also been a consistent style, where I tend to wear at least two necklaces on most occasions.

“This has impacted Gennuu’s designs as well. Most of its pieces are sold as singles to mix and match with other styles, and some designs offer pairs in a mix of silver and gold, instead of the usual all-silver and all-gold options. 

“For necklaces, all its lengths are of a minimum adjustable length, such that they can be worn as shorter necklaces, or as medium-long chains. I [also] have some items coming up that can be combined to be worn as body chains too. 

“At the moment, I’ve been loving wearing Gennuu’s U earring in both gold and silver on one ear, paired with the Nnuu studs on the other, and NU bar on my cartilage piercings,” says Chantelle.

SUSTAINABLE JEWELLERY

Sustainability in fashion is an ongoing conversation, and is also relevant for jewellery brands. Chantelle recently graduated with a Masters in Product Design from Kingston School of Art in London and says that there was a major focus on sustainable design throughout the course. 

“Sustainability has always been a consideration in the design and production of my products. Having gone through projects that work with sustainable processes and materials, I have been connected to ways that look at improving the durability and reusability of products,” Chantelle explains.

“With Gennuu, one of its main motivations was to reduce the quantity of jewellery people need to purchase without compromising on the number of styles they can wear. Gennuu also pays special attention to the quality of its products, which have gone through months of quality checks and testing to ensure they last our wearers for a substantial period of time. 

“The majority of our designs also come in sturdy, classic forms that are more timeless. We also provide a complimentary repair service for our pieces, as we encourage our customers to repair products rather than re-purchase an entirely new piece. Gennuu also offers customers to purchase most of its designs as singular pieces, should they need to replace or mix and match their pairs.

“As we are still a small and growing company, we are taking baby steps towards creating a more sustainable future — but this is definitely in the works. We have been researching how to give back and reduce our carbon footprint as well.”

Designer and founder of Gennuu, Chantelle Huan

Gennuu pieces are produced in South Korea with input from a team in Vietnam. Chantelle chose this option after months of research and testing, looking for producers that met her standards for detailing and quality.

“This meant having to improve my level of Korean – I am taking higher level classes at the moment – in order to better communicate with them. Albeit a little more difficult, the decision to work with them has been a fruitful one,” she explains.

“The brand is also currently looking to work with smaller independent gold and silversmiths, in hopes of supporting small businesses and independent artistes. It’s a tough journey in any design industry, hence we hope that co-supporting each other can help achieve our visions.”

THE FUTURE IS GOLDEN

Chantelle says that her future goals for Gennuu include increasing brand awareness and introducing more people to its unique concept.

“In the long run, I hope for Gennuu to be a brand that is reliable, both in terms of style and quality — a brand that people can look to when wanting to purchase jewellery that encompass all aspects of function, great design and good quality,” she says. 

“Gennuu is a brand that aims for its designs to be inclusive and non-conforming, and we respect and encourage self-expression and individualism, which serves back as inspiration for our brand and designs. As our motto goes: ‘You are the U in Gennuu, and we want Gennuu to be a brand that is made for you’.”

The streamlined design of Gennuu lends itself to being worn by everyone — male, female and non-gendered or gender diverse. The neat shapes of the core pieces like the O Earring, the Nnuu Stud, the Nu Bar Stud and the Luna Necklace can be worn by everyone. All of the pieces are available in either silver or gold. Likewise, the slightly larger earrings like the U Earring and the Chain Earring, can also be worn by everyone, depending on your personal style.

Chantelle has also created a flexible format for shopping and wearing Gennuu pieces: “We provide an option for you to purchase singular pieces in a complimentary palette of gold and silver, allowing you to mix and match, and so you don’t repeat what you already have. We also offer the option of purchasing pairs in a mix of both gold and silver.”

“Our pieces come in forms that are neutral and reliable — simply match our earrings with your favourite pair of everyday studs, or stack our long form pieces across all your piercings.”

Shop Gennuu jewellery online at www.gennuu.com. You can also follow the brand on Instagram at @gennuu_official and on TikTok at @gennuu_official.

I want every piece of the new Carrie K. fine jewellery Modern Heirloom collection

I’m in love with the new Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection from Singapore artisan jeweller Carrie K.

Everyone who knows me even a little bit knows I love rings, and more recently, earrings. Likewise, they know that one of my favourite places to buy jewellery brands is from Singapore artisan jeweller, Carrie K.

So you can imagine my joy when I saw the first pieces of its newest collection, Modern Heirlooms.

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The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection. Image: Carrie K.

The thing that makes Carolyn Kan – the founder and designer of Carrie K – such an interesting jeweller, is her dedication to creating pieces that are somehow attached to her Singapore heritage but that look nothing like an obvious recreation.

There is always a certain consideration that Carolyn applies when she designs; she doesn’t take the most obvious route towards referencing ‘local flavour’, and generally designs first from a point of genuine interest and love for the things that make Singapore special. She also has a quirky sense of humour.

Carolyn is basically the nicest person in the world too. #justsaying

The new Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection has been inspired by Singapore’s Peranakan heritage, in particular the colourful traditional tiles. But unlike just about every fashion student I’ve ever had the misfortune to critique, Carolyn didn’t just go with over-wrought patterns of teal, fuschia and lemon.  

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The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection. Image: Carrie K.

Although the designs were based on the stylised plants and animals of the traditional tiles that can be found across Singapore from Chinatown to Little India and Geylang Serai, when you look at the geometric and streamlined jewellery pieces the connection does not smack you in the face.

“The Modern Heirloom Collection was designed to create relevant interpretations of important elements of our Singapore Heritage in the hope that these meaningful reminders will be handed down to future generations,” says Carolyn.

There is a very Art Deco feel to the designs overall, including the sharp lines, the pearls and the fact that Carolyn chose to use white gold instead of yellow for the settings. The colours come from rubies, emeralds, blue sapphires and diamonds and well as semi-precious stones such as amethyst, peridot, topaz, and jade.

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The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection. Image: Carrie K.

As well as the refined, pared-back aesthetic, Carolyn has continued her penchant for mechanical things by fiddling with the designs to include multiple functions. There’s an ‘over ring’ that you wear with the core Heritage Rings; this creates an impressive cocktail ring that you can breakdown into a smaller everyday piece. As with all Carrie K. pieces, the designs come in a number of price points. Starting from only SG$288 for the silver version of the Heritage Outer Ring with topaz, that you pair with a silver and ruby, blue sapphire or emerald Heritage Ring for SG$388. You can also splash out on a luxe version that is made of 9 karat gold with a great emerald for SG$1,288.

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The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection Heritage Ring. Image: Carrie K.

Another inspiration for Carolyn for the Modern Heirloom collection was Si Dian Jin – usually connected to weddings but actually based on the Chinese concept of ‘four generations under one roof’. You can also see echos of this concept in the architecture of the traditional Chinese four-pointed roof. That concept is where the overall design of the rings comes from – the outer ring with four ‘points’ and the inner ring with four stones that represent the four generations.

singapore jeweller carrie k heritage fine jewellery collection Heritage Ear Drops
The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection Heritage Ear Drops. Image: Carrie K.

The rings are obviously my favourite pieces, but the earrings are damn nice too. Like the rings, the earrings are also multifunctional – the Heritage Ear Drops can be worn either as simple studs or with the additional ‘drops’ which you can buy separately. Prices range from $368 to $588 depending on the type of stones you choose. Top of the line is the pair that comes in 9 karat gold with amethyst and London blue topaz or white topaz which cost $1,488. I’m also loving the studs in rhodalite garnet or dark tarvorite garnet for $1,188.

Basically I’m impressed with the whole collection – as if that’s not obvious. I just have to work out how to pay for all the pieces I want.

The Carrie K. Heritage fine jewellery collection is available from the new Carrie K. Fine Jewellery Atelier located at #02-02 National Design Centre. The atelier will feature the custom and bespoke services, and you can shop for the ready-to-wear Carrie K. collection at the Keepers PlayShop at #01-01 National Design Centre.

Why Love Bonito isn’t a fashion brand, and why that’s not a bad thing … also something about the Singapore fashion plagiarism controversy

For a long time I’ve had an issue with Singapore media describing certain companies that make clothes as ‘fashion brands’ but which are actually ‘retail’ labels. These brands – Love, Bonito is one of them – are not really ‘fashion brands’; they are companies that make nice clothes, at reasonable prices, with a bit of personal style, for people to wear on a daily basis. These brands are more similar to Topshop and Uniqlo than they are to Dior or Chanel, or even Vetements.

In Singapore there are number of quite successful retail brands that have been making their way into popular shopping memories, but which are not fashion brands per se. Brands like Love, Bonito, By Invite Only, Beyond the Vines and Benjamin Barker, were recently featured at the Singapore Fashion Awards 2017, as part of the ‘marketing’ section, not as part of the design awards. And having been a founding judge for the awards, I know that the reason these brands are featured is because they are popular and much more retail-friendly than many less wearable or conceptual designer brands. Designer brands that are more appropriate to be considered as ‘fashion’ labels.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not saying that more retail-friendly brands are worse than the more fashion-forward labels. What I’m trying to highlight is that these types of clothing companies are not ‘oranges and apples’, they’re more ‘oranges and coffee-smoked buffalo tongue’. The first is something that doesn’t scare the shopper, the second is only for the very adventurous.

I have a great deal of respect for Love, Bonito’s founders. They have created a very lucrative business in a fashion retail environment that’s been under a great deal of pressure for the last 2-3 years. The brand knows exactly who their customer is; they know what she wants; and they know how to give it to her in a seamless online-to-offline experience. The brand has a variety of price points, but retains its core directive from its launch, expanding only as much, and as directionally, as is needed to grow the business. Love, Bonito is not a fashion brand swinging on the weird wind of trends and concepts; it’s sailing along smoothly along in a clear direction. And this is not a bad thing.

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Image from Love, Bonito Chinese New Year 2018 capsule collection. Model: Jasmine Sim

While I may not consider Love, Bonito to be a hardcore fashion brand – you can read about the Singapore brands I do consider more ‘fashion’ – the founders have never claimed it is one. They are purposefully creating a business that has long term prospects in the retail market.

Unfortunately, there are a number of so-called fashion brands based in Singapore that claim to be something they’re not. The most obvious is the ‘celebrity’ brand Exhibit by Yoyo Cao. It showed at Singapore Fashion Week 2017, and had some obvious problems. There were distinct issues about plagiarism, so bad in fact that cult fashion Instagram account Diet Prada dedicated an entire post to Yoyo Cao’s label’s knock-offs. Considering that Yoyo is a certified fashionista, it really was remarkably naive to think that no one would notice.

There are a few other Singapore brands that are also not exactly pristine when it comes to plagiarism. Whole9Yards has been cited for knocking off first, Self Portrait – the classic coloured lace dresses of its earliest collections – and now Malaysian designer, Jonathan Liang. Pleatation is obviously a copy of Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please label.

For Pleatation, the concept arose at the same time as micro pleated skirts started flooding Zara and Topshop; the brand cleverly linked up with this trend.

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Image from Jonathan Liang SS17

When Whole9Yards first launched there was not a whole lot to talk about. The design concept was very ‘office lady’. However, after Self Portrait’s iconic lace dresses took off in 2013, Whole9Yards began to specialise in lace dresses the average OL could afford. The lace dress became a staple of its output. And very successful it was too. Although I’ve noticed that the brand has massively increased their prices now that they’re doing items that look like those of Jonathan Liang.

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Image from Whole9Yards AW17

Again, I’m not saying that affordable retail options are an entirely bad thing. What I am saying is that making items that so closely echo the creative work of other designers is not fashion; it is copying. It is the lack of original design coupled with riding a wave of commercial popularity that makes it ‘retail’ and NOT fashion. At least as far as I’m concerned.

As I was quoted in this very flattering story by Adele Chan, the Editor-in-Chief of Nylon Singapore … As always, I want to remind readers that this is my personal opinion, and as with anything, you can always have your own.”