Non-gendered jewellery versatile enough to suit every occasion and last forever

Like many people I do love my jewellery; it was always rings for me but earrings — of a sort — came a close second. Unlike my rings which I would change everyday, my earrings pretty much stayed the same, sometimes for years at a time. 

This idea of wearing ‘permanent’ jewellery is a popular concept right now, particularly the idea of having a piece of jewellery practically welded to your body, but while you can remove your everyday pieces many of us don’t so it becomes basically the same thing. 

DISCOVER GENNUU

New Singapore brand Gennuu by local creative Chantelle Huan fits into this new movement. The pieces are simple but stylish, affordable but also sturdy enough to be worn on the daily, or basically ‘permanently’. 

“Gennuu was founded with the intention to create jewellery pieces that are stylish, affordable yet of great quality, versatile enough to suit all occasions while allowing our wearers to be able to express their own personality and vibe,” explains Chantelle.  

The founder and designer of Gennuu, Chantelle Huan

According to Chantelle, the brand name — pronounced ‘gen’ and ‘u’ — is linked to being ‘genuine’ and ‘generational’ with the ‘u’ representing the ‘you’ of the wearer. “At its core, it encompasses two main values that make up its identity: Genuine — a brand that is 100% genuine in what we design and curate – considering intention, function, and style. Generational — a brand that values openness, with hopes to build a community of fashionable go-getters willing to share and live experiences that transcend generations. The ‘U’ in Gennuu represents ‘you’ — Gennuu is a brand that is made for you,” Chantelle explains.

“Since I was young, I have always been interested in fashion and often took on roles such as costume designer for school activities. My interest in fashion also meant a constantly growing jewellery collection,” she says. 

“As time passed, I realised I would only re-wear a fraction of my pieces — often those with colours and styles that were easy to match and stack. 

“This sparked the motivation to create Gennuu. I wanted to reduce the number of pieces people needed to purchase, while retaining and even increasing the number of styles people could wear from those pieces. 

“Hence, Gennuu was born as a brand that emphasises on a core collection of essential pieces, with add-ons that are mixable, stackable and can be worn in multiple styles.”

The new brand has been strongly influenced by Chantelle’s personal style: “My personal style is a mix of classic, hardware pieces as well as more elaborate statement pieces, often in varying tones of silver and gold.”

Chantelle says that she always wears mismatched earrings, a concept that she factored into the design concept for Gennuu, alongside stacking and layering jewellery pieces. 

“One consistent style of mine is to always wear mismatched earrings. I honestly cannot remember the last time I wore the same pair of earrings on both ears! I always pair longer form pieces with shorter forms or studs, and tend to stack my stud piercings. Necklace and chain stacking has also been a consistent style, where I tend to wear at least two necklaces on most occasions.

“This has impacted Gennuu’s designs as well. Most of its pieces are sold as singles to mix and match with other styles, and some designs offer pairs in a mix of silver and gold, instead of the usual all-silver and all-gold options. 

“For necklaces, all its lengths are of a minimum adjustable length, such that they can be worn as shorter necklaces, or as medium-long chains. I [also] have some items coming up that can be combined to be worn as body chains too. 

“At the moment, I’ve been loving wearing Gennuu’s U earring in both gold and silver on one ear, paired with the Nnuu studs on the other, and NU bar on my cartilage piercings,” says Chantelle.

SUSTAINABLE JEWELLERY

Sustainability in fashion is an ongoing conversation, and is also relevant for jewellery brands. Chantelle recently graduated with a Masters in Product Design from Kingston School of Art in London and says that there was a major focus on sustainable design throughout the course. 

“Sustainability has always been a consideration in the design and production of my products. Having gone through projects that work with sustainable processes and materials, I have been connected to ways that look at improving the durability and reusability of products,” Chantelle explains.

“With Gennuu, one of its main motivations was to reduce the quantity of jewellery people need to purchase without compromising on the number of styles they can wear. Gennuu also pays special attention to the quality of its products, which have gone through months of quality checks and testing to ensure they last our wearers for a substantial period of time. 

“The majority of our designs also come in sturdy, classic forms that are more timeless. We also provide a complimentary repair service for our pieces, as we encourage our customers to repair products rather than re-purchase an entirely new piece. Gennuu also offers customers to purchase most of its designs as singular pieces, should they need to replace or mix and match their pairs.

“As we are still a small and growing company, we are taking baby steps towards creating a more sustainable future — but this is definitely in the works. We have been researching how to give back and reduce our carbon footprint as well.”

Designer and founder of Gennuu, Chantelle Huan

Gennuu pieces are produced in South Korea with input from a team in Vietnam. Chantelle chose this option after months of research and testing, looking for producers that met her standards for detailing and quality.

“This meant having to improve my level of Korean – I am taking higher level classes at the moment – in order to better communicate with them. Albeit a little more difficult, the decision to work with them has been a fruitful one,” she explains.

“The brand is also currently looking to work with smaller independent gold and silversmiths, in hopes of supporting small businesses and independent artistes. It’s a tough journey in any design industry, hence we hope that co-supporting each other can help achieve our visions.”

THE FUTURE IS GOLDEN

Chantelle says that her future goals for Gennuu include increasing brand awareness and introducing more people to its unique concept.

“In the long run, I hope for Gennuu to be a brand that is reliable, both in terms of style and quality — a brand that people can look to when wanting to purchase jewellery that encompass all aspects of function, great design and good quality,” she says. 

“Gennuu is a brand that aims for its designs to be inclusive and non-conforming, and we respect and encourage self-expression and individualism, which serves back as inspiration for our brand and designs. As our motto goes: ‘You are the U in Gennuu, and we want Gennuu to be a brand that is made for you’.”

The streamlined design of Gennuu lends itself to being worn by everyone — male, female and non-gendered or gender diverse. The neat shapes of the core pieces like the O Earring, the Nnuu Stud, the Nu Bar Stud and the Luna Necklace can be worn by everyone. All of the pieces are available in either silver or gold. Likewise, the slightly larger earrings like the U Earring and the Chain Earring, can also be worn by everyone, depending on your personal style.

Chantelle has also created a flexible format for shopping and wearing Gennuu pieces: “We provide an option for you to purchase singular pieces in a complimentary palette of gold and silver, allowing you to mix and match, and so you don’t repeat what you already have. We also offer the option of purchasing pairs in a mix of both gold and silver.”

“Our pieces come in forms that are neutral and reliable — simply match our earrings with your favourite pair of everyday studs, or stack our long form pieces across all your piercings.”

Shop Gennuu jewellery online at www.gennuu.com. You can also follow the brand on Instagram at @gennuu_official and on TikTok at @gennuu_official.

Wear your Vaccination status proudly with the Depression ‘Freedom Capsule’

My favourite fashion brand, Singapore-based label Depression, has launched a very timely capsule collection that will allow you to proudly shout out your Coronavirus vaccination status. 

The ‘Freedom Capsule’ collection is a series of three limited edition graphic tees inspired by surviving lockdowns, lockouts and the designers’ hopes for a better tomorrow. 

The Antidote tee comes in regular or oversized styles, the Vaccinated tee requires you to actually prove your vaccination status before you can buy it, and the Freedom shirt is a symbol of the hopes of a post-pandemic world. 

All pieces are available from Sects Shop, Orchard Gateway #04-14, or online at www.shopdepression.com and www.sectsshop.com.

Meet the finalists: Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition

Singapore Stories is an annual fashion design contest organised by the Textile and Fashion Federation (TaFF), and this year despite the impact of Coronavirus is on track to choose a final winner on 22 October, 2020. 

All five of the finalists will hold a runway show on the same date at the Asian Civilisations Museum, where the judges will choose the winner who will be included in the annual Contemporary Gallery at the Asian Civilisations Museum, and be able to launch a collaboration with one of Asia’s top multi-label fashion retailer SocietyA. There will also be an opportunity for a showcase at Paris Fashion Week for the holder of the Singapore Fashion Award.

As with every year, there was a theme for the designers to work around: Reimagining the History and Creating the Future, based on the idea of “examining the past and interpreting the future of design”.

The five finalists:

Nude Femme by Adelyn Putri 

finalists Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition NUDE FEMME

Described as “feminine, timeless, versatile and luxurious”, Nude Femme is a sexy ready-to-wear brand that is made by hand in Singapore and around the region, with a focus on supporting women. The brand adheres to the principles of Fair Trade, Fair Wages, Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) and Garment without Guilt (GWG) standards. 

CYC by Cara Chiang 

finalists Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition CYC

A family-owned tailoring business, CYC was established in 1935, and is best known for its affordable, quality tailored shirts. Cara Chiang is a family scion who is involved with creating new concepts for the brand. The brand has a strong Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) programme including, recently, creating and distribution of 300,000 Masks for Migrants in Singapore after the outbreak of Coronavirus.

Carol Chen 

Founder of Covetella, a designer dress rental service, Carol Chen is using the opportunity of the Singapore Stories competition to relaunch herself as a designer of her own namesake brand. Her design aesthetic fits into the world of glamour that the former beauty queen knows well. 

Martha Who by Mette Hartman 

finalists Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition MARTHA WHO

Using traditional batik, Martha Who by Mette Hartman is a sustainable resort wear brand that features hand dyed silk caftans in jewel tones. Very Bali luxe. The pieces are hand-crafted by artisans then sewn by hand and embellished in Singapore.

Nida Shay by Nida Tahir Shaheryar 

finalists Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition NIDA SHAY

A glamorous womenswear brand, Nida Shay has been around for a few years and features the substantial use of artisanal hand embroidery created in the rural areas of Pakistan. The designer believes in supporting traditional artisans, with a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) programme that provides a living wage, educational ventures and vocational training to support the wider community of craftspeople in Pakistan.

For more information about TaFF’s Singapore Stories contest, go to singapore-stories.com.

 

Discover new Singapore-based Fair Trade jewellery brand Atelier Agape

A long time ago I met Vera Mao as part of a Singapore Streetstyle contest; she was elegant, interested and interesting, calm and had a hidden passion for creating her own path. With the recent launch of Atelier Agape, Vera has manifested her potential. 

Atelier Agape Founder Vera Mao-1

Atelier Agape is a fair trade jewellery brand. All the pieces are handcrafted in an ethical manner by marginalised artisans in Jaipur. All the artisans are paid a fair wage and given training in enterprise building skills in conjunction with SETU, a fair trade organisation based in Jaipur. “During the pandemic, SETU has also used a part of its profits from jewellery production to prepare and distribute meals for the poor and destitute,” says Vera.

All of the Atelier Agape jewellery pieces are handcrafted from 925 sterling silver, gilded with white rhodium or 14K gold vermeil and do not contain any lead, cadmium or nickel, making it hypoallergenic and safe for sensitive skin.

Just in time for Mother’s Day, the brand is launching with a collection dedicated to mothers and their children.

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“I am always moved by the emotional and undeniable connection of the maternal bond between a woman and her child. With several of my friends becoming new mothers, and having attended numerous baby showers, I was tired of the typical gift gifting traditions,” explains Vera. 

“I found myself seeking something different, something that would honour the start of this relationship that is so deeply meaningful. There are several mother-child matching fashion [options] but not in jewellery, which is a highly personal category.”

“Each piece is thoughtfully designed to allow both mother and child to latch meaning unto and cherish with time, through intricate details and free personalisation to tell each mother’s unique story,” explains Vera.

Atelier Agape Fair Trade personalized jewelry lowres-39

Tous Les Jours, which translates to ‘everyday’ in French, is the first Atelier Agape collection and is inspired by “everyday superheroes – real, modern, selfless mothers” says Vera. There are different styles to match different tastes, and the central concept is based on the idea of separating one into two – mother and child pendants that can be worn together, or separated to be worn by both.

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“Drawing inspiration from the idea that mothers always wish to carry their little one with them to keep them safe, the matching bracelet set features a Mama Bear and Baby Bear pendant that fits perfectly into each other in a perpetual hug, while the 2-in-1 Nesting Locket Necklace features a locket that opens to reveal an inner pendant,” says Vera.

Atelier Agape jewelry is available exclusively on www.atelieragape.com. All orders from first-time customers receive 10% off. Prices quoted in SGD. For Mother’s Day only, all orders made before 10 May will receive free gift-wrapping.  

Founder of Love, Bonito, Rachel Lim, on thriving, not just surviving, in the fashion retail world

The Singapore brand, Love, Bonito, might have begun in 2010 as a ‘blogshop’ but it has now expanded into a multi-outlet bricks ‘n’ mortar lifestyle brand with the opening of its second Singapore store in Jem. This is on top of its flagship store in 313@Somerset, and its two retail stores in Kuala Lumpur. Love, Bonito is obviously thriving, not just surviving the current troubled retail market.

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The latest collection from Love, Bonito. Image: Love, Bonito

Continuing its focus on being a ‘retail friend’ to its customers, the Love, Bonito brand has stepped easily into the new retail world of experiences and technology, its founders becoming social media influencers in their own rights, and their fans becoming loyal customers. Despite the so-called woes of retail, this disruptor fashion brand is powering ahead.

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To discover more about how the brand has grown, developed and succeeded, I got in touch with Rachel Lim, the co-founder of Love, Bonito, and the current face of the brand’s marketing, to answer a few questions. With 106K followers on Instagram alone, Lim is not only a successful business woman, she’s an inspiration to hundreds of entrepreneurial Singaporeans.

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The latest collection from Love, Bonito. Image: Love, Bonito

Did you have any female business role models when growing up?
Rachel Lim: No particular ones but there are strong females I had as role models growing up – my mom. She was a strong inspiration because even though we went through so much hardship as a family she showed a lot of grit and tenacity, all while keeping her joy and positivity, which was the key in us getting through the difficulties.

When did you know you wanted to run your own business?
RL: When I decided to drop out of my final year in university to start Love, Bonito with my Co-Founders. I knew that I wanted to create something that didn’t exist for women.

Do you think being a female entrepreneur has made a difference to how you have built your business?
RL: Not so sure if it’s because I’m a female but being a real woman creating for other real women has definitely helped shape who Love, Bonito is.

What were the factors that led you to start Love, Bonito?
RL: The clear gap in the market. There weren’t any pieces out there that really suited and fitted Asian women in a flattering way. That was how we started – by understanding the needs of other women, what they were looking for, and creating for them.

What sort of resources (besides financial) did you have when you started Love, Bonito?
RL: We had guts (haha). Because we were pioneers in the business of e-commerce back then, we had to pave the way ourselves. For example, there weren’t even any courier services who were well-versed in this format of business.

What kind of market research did you do before starting Love, Bonito?
RL: Honestly, we didn’t do much research initially. We learnt via a lot of trial and error and from making mistakes. Most of our learning was done on the go.

Did you feel prepared to start the business when you did?
RL: Back then I felt more excited than prepared. And in some way that drove me to push forward regardless of the problems that surfaced.

Have your goals and values changed since starting Love, Bonito?
RL: I have really evolved as a person. Since starting the brand I have found myself, and I continue to discover myself everyday. I have learnt to accept my strengths and weaknesses and embrace them. More importantly, I have learned how to grow and use my talents to contribute while surrounding myself with others who compliment my weaknesses.

What were some of the key lessons learned?
RL: That one can’t do it all. And one shouldn’t do it all. I wish I had known earlier to discover my areas of strength and to develop and hone them so that I could contribute strongly in those aspects.

What are your plans for the future of Love, Bonito?
RL: Right now we are empowering women and reaching out to women through fashion. The dream is to reach out to even more women through other different vehicles.

What advice, based on your own experience, do you have for women starting a business today?
RL: Don’t just start a business because it’s the sexy, in thing. I truly believe that there is no age limit to being an entrepreneur. Find and know your why and more importantly, surround yourself with people who will love you enough to be honest with you. If and when you have decided to start a business, the right team at the right stage of your business is absolutely essential.

The Love, Bonito Jem store opens on 8 December 2018, in Singapore. The Love, Bonito flagship store is located at 313@Somerset. To shop the brand online go to: www.lovebonito.com.

I want every piece of the new Carrie K. fine jewellery Modern Heirloom collection

I’m in love with the new Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection from Singapore artisan jeweller Carrie K.

Everyone who knows me even a little bit knows I love rings, and more recently, earrings. Likewise, they know that one of my favourite places to buy jewellery brands is from Singapore artisan jeweller, Carrie K.

So you can imagine my joy when I saw the first pieces of its newest collection, Modern Heirlooms.

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The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection. Image: Carrie K.

The thing that makes Carolyn Kan – the founder and designer of Carrie K – such an interesting jeweller, is her dedication to creating pieces that are somehow attached to her Singapore heritage but that look nothing like an obvious recreation.

There is always a certain consideration that Carolyn applies when she designs; she doesn’t take the most obvious route towards referencing ‘local flavour’, and generally designs first from a point of genuine interest and love for the things that make Singapore special. She also has a quirky sense of humour.

Carolyn is basically the nicest person in the world too. #justsaying

The new Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection has been inspired by Singapore’s Peranakan heritage, in particular the colourful traditional tiles. But unlike just about every fashion student I’ve ever had the misfortune to critique, Carolyn didn’t just go with over-wrought patterns of teal, fuschia and lemon.  

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The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection. Image: Carrie K.

Although the designs were based on the stylised plants and animals of the traditional tiles that can be found across Singapore from Chinatown to Little India and Geylang Serai, when you look at the geometric and streamlined jewellery pieces the connection does not smack you in the face.

“The Modern Heirloom Collection was designed to create relevant interpretations of important elements of our Singapore Heritage in the hope that these meaningful reminders will be handed down to future generations,” says Carolyn.

There is a very Art Deco feel to the designs overall, including the sharp lines, the pearls and the fact that Carolyn chose to use white gold instead of yellow for the settings. The colours come from rubies, emeralds, blue sapphires and diamonds and well as semi-precious stones such as amethyst, peridot, topaz, and jade.

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The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection. Image: Carrie K.

As well as the refined, pared-back aesthetic, Carolyn has continued her penchant for mechanical things by fiddling with the designs to include multiple functions. There’s an ‘over ring’ that you wear with the core Heritage Rings; this creates an impressive cocktail ring that you can breakdown into a smaller everyday piece. As with all Carrie K. pieces, the designs come in a number of price points. Starting from only SG$288 for the silver version of the Heritage Outer Ring with topaz, that you pair with a silver and ruby, blue sapphire or emerald Heritage Ring for SG$388. You can also splash out on a luxe version that is made of 9 karat gold with a great emerald for SG$1,288.

singapore jeweller carrie k heritage fine jewellery collection Heritage Styled Ring Sapphire
The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection Heritage Ring. Image: Carrie K.

Another inspiration for Carolyn for the Modern Heirloom collection was Si Dian Jin – usually connected to weddings but actually based on the Chinese concept of ‘four generations under one roof’. You can also see echos of this concept in the architecture of the traditional Chinese four-pointed roof. That concept is where the overall design of the rings comes from – the outer ring with four ‘points’ and the inner ring with four stones that represent the four generations.

singapore jeweller carrie k heritage fine jewellery collection Heritage Ear Drops
The Modern Heirloom fine jewellery collection Heritage Ear Drops. Image: Carrie K.

The rings are obviously my favourite pieces, but the earrings are damn nice too. Like the rings, the earrings are also multifunctional – the Heritage Ear Drops can be worn either as simple studs or with the additional ‘drops’ which you can buy separately. Prices range from $368 to $588 depending on the type of stones you choose. Top of the line is the pair that comes in 9 karat gold with amethyst and London blue topaz or white topaz which cost $1,488. I’m also loving the studs in rhodalite garnet or dark tarvorite garnet for $1,188.

Basically I’m impressed with the whole collection – as if that’s not obvious. I just have to work out how to pay for all the pieces I want.

The Carrie K. Heritage fine jewellery collection is available from the new Carrie K. Fine Jewellery Atelier located at #02-02 National Design Centre. The atelier will feature the custom and bespoke services, and you can shop for the ready-to-wear Carrie K. collection at the Keepers PlayShop at #01-01 National Design Centre.

Why Love Bonito isn’t a fashion brand, and why that’s not a bad thing … also something about the Singapore fashion plagiarism controversy

For a long time I’ve had an issue with Singapore media describing certain companies that make clothes as ‘fashion brands’ but which are actually ‘retail’ labels. These brands – Love, Bonito is one of them – are not really ‘fashion brands’; they are companies that make nice clothes, at reasonable prices, with a bit of personal style, for people to wear on a daily basis. These brands are more similar to Topshop and Uniqlo than they are to Dior or Chanel, or even Vetements.

In Singapore there are number of quite successful retail brands that have been making their way into popular shopping memories, but which are not fashion brands per se. Brands like Love, Bonito, By Invite Only, Beyond the Vines and Benjamin Barker, were recently featured at the Singapore Fashion Awards 2017, as part of the ‘marketing’ section, not as part of the design awards. And having been a founding judge for the awards, I know that the reason these brands are featured is because they are popular and much more retail-friendly than many less wearable or conceptual designer brands. Designer brands that are more appropriate to be considered as ‘fashion’ labels.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not saying that more retail-friendly brands are worse than the more fashion-forward labels. What I’m trying to highlight is that these types of clothing companies are not ‘oranges and apples’, they’re more ‘oranges and coffee-smoked buffalo tongue’. The first is something that doesn’t scare the shopper, the second is only for the very adventurous.

I have a great deal of respect for Love, Bonito’s founders. They have created a very lucrative business in a fashion retail environment that’s been under a great deal of pressure for the last 2-3 years. The brand knows exactly who their customer is; they know what she wants; and they know how to give it to her in a seamless online-to-offline experience. The brand has a variety of price points, but retains its core directive from its launch, expanding only as much, and as directionally, as is needed to grow the business. Love, Bonito is not a fashion brand swinging on the weird wind of trends and concepts; it’s sailing along smoothly along in a clear direction. And this is not a bad thing.

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Image from Love, Bonito Chinese New Year 2018 capsule collection. Model: Jasmine Sim

While I may not consider Love, Bonito to be a hardcore fashion brand – you can read about the Singapore brands I do consider more ‘fashion’ – the founders have never claimed it is one. They are purposefully creating a business that has long term prospects in the retail market.

Unfortunately, there are a number of so-called fashion brands based in Singapore that claim to be something they’re not. The most obvious is the ‘celebrity’ brand Exhibit by Yoyo Cao. It showed at Singapore Fashion Week 2017, and had some obvious problems. There were distinct issues about plagiarism, so bad in fact that cult fashion Instagram account Diet Prada dedicated an entire post to Yoyo Cao’s label’s knock-offs. Considering that Yoyo is a certified fashionista, it really was remarkably naive to think that no one would notice.

There are a few other Singapore brands that are also not exactly pristine when it comes to plagiarism. Whole9Yards has been cited for knocking off first, Self Portrait – the classic coloured lace dresses of its earliest collections – and now Malaysian designer, Jonathan Liang. Pleatation is obviously a copy of Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please label.

For Pleatation, the concept arose at the same time as micro pleated skirts started flooding Zara and Topshop; the brand cleverly linked up with this trend.

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Image from Jonathan Liang SS17

When Whole9Yards first launched there was not a whole lot to talk about. The design concept was very ‘office lady’. However, after Self Portrait’s iconic lace dresses took off in 2013, Whole9Yards began to specialise in lace dresses the average OL could afford. The lace dress became a staple of its output. And very successful it was too. Although I’ve noticed that the brand has massively increased their prices now that they’re doing items that look like those of Jonathan Liang.

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Image from Whole9Yards AW17

Again, I’m not saying that affordable retail options are an entirely bad thing. What I am saying is that making items that so closely echo the creative work of other designers is not fashion; it is copying. It is the lack of original design coupled with riding a wave of commercial popularity that makes it ‘retail’ and NOT fashion. At least as far as I’m concerned.

As I was quoted in this very flattering story by Adele Chan, the Editor-in-Chief of Nylon Singapore … As always, I want to remind readers that this is my personal opinion, and as with anything, you can always have your own.”

 

Portraits … images of models backstage

Have been looking at some of the photography I’ve done lately and realised that I’ve been getting a lot better at it; at least I think so. Here are some backstage snaps I took at the Finland’s Fashion Frontier runway show featuring a couple of Singapore’s top models – male and female, including the amazing Jean Yong in the main image above – and some other lovely faces … It’s all in the eyes. I might need to invest in a proper camera.

READ THE STORY: A focus on fashion from Finland … the next big thing?

All images shot on iPhoneX and edited by me.

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Singapore model Gabriel Yap. #shotoniphonex

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portrait photography models singapore RUFFLES
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Opinion: The best Singapore fashion brands and why …

There is a tendency in small communities to rave about any local brand or designer simply because they ARE local.

While it is important to support local talent, it is just as important to give praise where due, and to not simply celebrate the ‘localness’ for its own sake.

This is what has happened over the last 6 years in the Singapore fashion industry. Local brands with little to no true originality have been patted on the back and given media coverage simply because they exist. It’s like giving all the kids in a race a certificate and no medals for first, second or third.

When you don’t appear to get anything more for standing out from the crowd and being better than others, what’s the point of trying?

Conversely, just because you have a lot of friends in the local media, it shouldn’t mean that your work is placed higher on the tent pole of adulation.

READ: My review of the 2017 Singapore Fashion Week; the good, the bad and the scandals

In Singapore there has been a general creep towards admiration for retail brands that have successful social media accounts, rather than support for labels that do their own thing and focus on creating original work.

Yes, we should be proud of the brands that have continued to be economically viable in the current difficult retail environment – and indeed, they deserve praise simply for surviving. However, retail-successful brands are not going to be cutting edge fashion design in a trend-focused, shopping-driven country like Singapore.

Over the last 9 years in Singapore I have seen so many fashion brands come and go. Some deserved to disappear from our fashion radar, but others succumbed due to the lack of media attention, the lack of fashion education for shoppers – also media-led – and a general oversupply of any, and every, fashion brand in the world. Not to mention, of course, the increasing rise of online shopping.

Out of this complicated mess of being ignored in favour of someone’s friend’s new blogshop sourced from Dongdaemun Market; fighting for sales against global retail giants; and forever being forgotten by the fashion media except for the annual ‘Singapore issue’, there have risen a few fashion and accessories brands worth talking about.

These are my personal picks for Singapore fashion brands that actually work from a creative base of originality; no, they’re not all perfect (no brand is) but they have worked to ensure that they have a brand identity that doesn’t depend on ripping off other brands.

DEPRESSION

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Image: Depression

Yes, I admit that I am personal friends with the designers behind Singapore streetwear unisex brand Depression. However, this doesn’t mean I can’t objectively appreciate what Kenny Lim and Andrew Loh have done over the last 10 years. Yes, Depression is 10 years old.

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A brand that began as t-shirts for the impoverished junior industry creatives and hairstylists of Singapore, has grown into a brand that has a distinct DNA, is stocked globally and has shown at Berlin Fashion Week.

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Depression is not a brand for everyone. It’s mostly black, drapey, oversized, punk-influenced streetwear for guys who work in the creative industries and girls who don’t like wearing pink lace dresses. But this doesn’t mean it’s not good.

Depression has a particular point-of-view and a targeted customer. And these are the reasons why it has survived Singapore’s ‘retail apocalypse’.

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Image: Depression

Depression does have some issues. Over the years the brand has had hiccups in fabrication and fitting, but the team of designers tend not to make the same mistakes twice. As the brand owners have branched out into a multilabel store – Sects Shop – and a number of in-house brands, their ‘learnings’ have been incorporated into improving the Depression label.

Despite, or in fact, because of this, Depression is a Singapore fashion brand worth celebrating, whether or not you love an all black wardrobe.

Depression is available from Sects Shop located at Orchard Gateway #04-14, Singapore, and online at www.depression.com.sg.

IN GOOD COMPANY

best singapore fashion brands IN GOOD COMPANY MAIN
Image: In Good Company

Designed and owned by the creative team behind now-defunct original Singapore brand Alldressedup, In Good Company is a tight collaboration between two designers who have their own specialties, and who know exactly who they are designing for. I’ve always said that the team, who worked together for about 10 years, made all their mistakes with someone else’s label, which is why they have grown from strength to strength since the brand launched in 2015.

best singapore fashion brands IN GOOD COMPANY ORANGE DRESS
Image: In Good Company

Jaclyn Teo, Sven Tan, Kane Tan – no relation – and Juliene Aw, are the co-founders of In Good Company, which started out with contemporary womenswear designed specifically for Singapore and the Southeast Asian region’s hot weather in a series of capsule collection ‘drops’, and has now expanded into matching ‘mini me’ collections for kids, and menswear. The brand is stocked in a number of stores in Singapore and the surrounding region, including in Jakarta, and has its own ‘tropical minimalist’ flagship store in ION Orchard on Orchard Road.

best singapore fashion brands IN GOOD COMPANY KIDS CLOTHES BOYS
Image: In Good Company

The reason I describe the brand as being ‘tropical minimalist’ is that its aesthetic is a mix of Scandinavian minimalist design (yes, there’s a fair bit of COS in the shapes of the clothes) combined with a love of strong colours, ease of wear and machine-washability; perfect for tropical weather.

best singapore fashion brands IN GOOD COMPANY MENSWEAR
Image: In Good Company

Cuts tend to be on the smaller, Asian side, however the brand launched first as an online store and has a wide range of global customers. The signature very-fine shoulder and back strap details, and unique fabrics like machine-washable silk and cotton ‘neoprene’ means In Good Company remains modern without being trend-driven. Pieces from early collections can just as easily be worn with the latest launches and also fit nicely into ‘arty’ wardrobes that feature a lot of Comme Des Garçons. Yes, there are a few ‘basics’ that have a tendency to look like COS summer collections, but overall, In Good Company retains its own voice.

best singapore fashion brands IN GOOD COMPANY NAVY DRESS
Image: In Good Company

The co-founders knew exactly who they were selling to before they launched the brand, and continue to stick to that very defined demographic despite the brand’s increasing profile as original Singapore design. They’ve been offered opportunities internationally – in countries that are definitely NOT tropical – but have stuck to their guns when it comes to designing for the region, not being beholden to global weather and not sticking to arbitrary fashion seasons.

READ: In Good Company creates uniforms for Andaz Hotel Singapore and opens store in Manila

It’s the combination of sticking to their preferred business model, knowing their customers and always exploring technology to create new, more comfortable fabrics, that has seen In Good Company continue to grow and establish itself as a strong independent Singapore fashion brand. This is not a brand that wants to become a global behemoth, the founders are all about staying true to their personal aesthetic and likewise living a life that allows for family and friends.

In Good Company is located at ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, #B1-06, Singapore. Open daily: 10am – 9:30pm, Tel: +65 6509 4786. You can shop the brand online at www.ingoodcompany.asia, and the store is also home to a cool cafe, Plain Vanilla Bakery.

CARRIE K. ARTISAN JEWELLERY

best singapore fashion brands CARRIE K NUTS AND BOLTS JEWELLERY MAIN
Image: Carrie K. Artisan Jewellery

Once again I have to own up to being personal friends with the team behind Carrie K. Artisan Jewellery, but hey, Singapore is a small place.

Carolyn Kan, the founder and designer of the brand is the perfect example of a Singapore creative just doing her thing, being excellent at what she does, and ignoring the shallow, wider world of globally focused trends and social media ra-ra.

best singapore fashion brands CARRIE K ALICE JEWELLERY
Image: Carrie K. Artisan Jewellery

Carolyn launched the label way back in 2009 as a way to ‘tell stories’ after changing her career. Almost immediately the brand took off as an international jewellery exporter; her quirky designs based on everything from nuts & bolts to paint splatters and morse code, struck a cord with people looking for ‘wearable art’ that was not only affordable but also unique and told a personal story. Carolyn has always done commission work, creating very personal pieces for customers who want something that tells their own story.

best singapore fashion brands CARRIE K MORSE CODE JEWELLERY
Image: Carrie K. Artisan Jewellery

The retail side of the business has grown over the years to encompass pieces in silver for less than a $100, to fine jewellery versions that can go for thousands. Every collection starts from Carolyn’s odd-but-interesting brain and continue to tell fun and unique tales about her world and the fans who have bought into it.

best singapore fashion brands CARRIE K LEATHER BRACELETS JEWELLERY
Image: Carrie K. Artisan Jewellery

On top of all this, Carolyn has been the backbone of the creative design scene in Singapore. Her creation of the Keepers Studio concept from pop-up weekends and stores, to a permanent retail space at Singapore’s National Design Centre, has seen her become the most important person in the national design scene. Without her, there would not be successful Singapore brands – a bold claim but one I’m ready to defend.

The Carrie K. Artisan Jewellery atelier is located at National Design Centre, 111 Middle Road. #02-03 (Annex building along Queen Street), Singapore. Open: Monday to Saturday, 12:00 – 7pm, Tel: +65 6352 2559. You can also shop the brand online at www.carriekrocks.com, and at the Keepers store. For a full list of stockists including international, go to www.carriekrocks.com/stores.

These are my current best Singapore designer fashion and accessories brands. I’ll continue to update and add to the list.

 

3 best multi-label fashion and accessory stores in Singapore

Everyone seems to agree that Singapore has some of the best shopping in the world. You really can buy everything in the shopping city, especially when it comes to fashion, shoes and accessories … There are all the European, American and Asian international brands, as well as some unique Singapore-centric labels as well. For my money, the best places to shop are some of the more eclectic multi-label stores … Sects Shop, Keepers and Biro Shouten.

SECTS SHOP

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore SECTS MAIN
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

Sects Shop is the store for people who love streetwear, alternative fashion and anything a bit spooky and goth. Founded in 2014 but the two creative minds behind Singapore fashion brand Depression – Kenny Lim and Andrew Loh – this multilabel store located in Orchard Gateway is always at the forefront of the next big trend. Although it’s mainly a menswear store, there’s a strong unisex component to the buy that neatly covers the new Korean streetwear trends of oversize, unisex ‘skirts for boys’ trends as well as generously-cut ‘drapey black goth’ pieces that are definitely female-friendly. Shoes are available in smaller sizes for women, and there are always accessories like bags and jewellery that can be adopted by both sexes.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore SECTS 1
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

What I love most about Sects Shop is that it’s always got something new – a new label, a new fashion-forward trend – and the staff are extremely knowledgeable about not only the labels in-store, but also about the current trends for styling.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore SECTS 2
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

The interior consists of various ‘shop-in-shop’ spaces that curate the various looks and trends into different spaces. The furniture pieces have been specially created to match the store’s concrete-industrial-tropical-trash feel and are used to create different spaces. Sects Shop is also home to semi-regular pop-up party events that basically include a runway show of the store’s hardcore fans in their best Sects Shop looks.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore SECTS 3
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

Depression has been around for about 10 years now, and has a hardcore, dedicated fan following; and now Sects Shop does too. Some of the brands stocked include in-house Singapore brand Depression (obviously), More Than Dope (Korea), Sleazy Corner (Korea), Killstar (UK), Fangophilia (Tokyo), MasterNumber (Korea), R.Shemiste (Korea), Thrasher (US), Heta (Korea), Drink Beer Save Water (Korea), OY (Korea), Youser (Korea) and Nasty Palm (Korea). You can shop online at sectsshop.com/collections/all.  

I have to admit to being a bit biased about the beauties of Sects Shop. I am a longtime friend of the co-owners 🙂 and also a big-spending customer; I do LOVE Korean fashion brands.

I was also the creative director for the shop’s recent Spring Summer campaign shoot … READ MORE HERE

Sects Shop not only has a great Instagram account that lets you know what’s new in-store, the owners have recently also launched an account called sects.education that’s designed to show Singaporean’s how to be a bit more cutting edge when it comes to their street style looks, and features images from some of the city’s more interesting fashionistas. Well worth following for some interesting Asian fashion inspiration.

Sects Shop is located at Orchard Gateway #04-14, Singapore.

KEEPERS

IMG_3651best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore KEEPERS MAIN
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

If you are looking for genuine Singapore design then you need to check out Keepers in the National Design Centre, which is worth checking out in its own right if you like any sort of design.

Created by one of Singapore’s most prolific and genuine artisans, Carolyn Kan of Carrie K. Artisan Jewellery which also has its studio in the same group of buildings, Keepers has had a number of incarnations, starting as a pop-up store on Orchard Road and ending up with its permanent spot in the Design Centre.

You can read more about her achievements in my round-up of the recent Singapore Fashion Awards 2017.

Carolyn is Singapore’s number one style and design collaborators – Singapore’s godmother of design. She has created numerous opportunities for all sorts of emerging artists and designers to come together to create unique capsule collections, but has also spearheaded the development of space for these artisans to actually SELL their creations. As a multilabel store, Keepers offers everything from jewellery, fashion, furniture and homewares, to unique flavoured teas and chocolates. Keepers is also behind the annual Singapasar fleamarket that features only Singaporean creations.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore KEEPERS 1
Thomas Wee capsule collection at Keepers. All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

So, back to the store. Situated in the front of the ground floor, the store is a free-form space that morphs into different design concepts based on individual brand concepts.

Currently Keepers is holding is a pop-up capsule collection from Singapore’s ‘Dowager Empress’ of fashion, Thomas Wee. This all-white range of beautifully hand-finished, couture-cut fashion pieces are based on Thomas’ all-time best-sellers. The designer himself was there opening night, taking measurements and informing customers that he would tailor various bits and pieces to better suit their body shapes.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore KEEPERS 2
Thomas Wee capsule collection at Keepers. All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

This is the type of personal service that adds to the joy of visiting Keepers. Carolyn and her creative husband/partner Chong can often be found hanging out in the store making useful suggestions to customers over which pieces of jewellery to buy, or which Ling Wu exotic skin bag looks best. Hands down, Keepers is the best place to buy stylish souvenirs from Singapore; and it’s the best place to snap up artistic presents as well.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore KEEPERS 3
Thomas Wee capsule collection at Keepers. All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

Keepers is located at National Design Centre, 111 Middle Road, #01-01, Singapore. Open 12pm to 8pm daily. The National Design Centre is also home to Carrie K. Atelier and super hot dining & cafe spot Tanuki Raw plus another cool multi-brand store Kapok.

BIRO SHOUTEN

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore BIRO MAIN
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

For shoppers who are more into the extreme hardcore minimalism of very select hand-curate objects and fashion items; or stylistas who are obsessed with the normcore purity of Japanese design, Biro Shouten is the tiny, perfect store for you.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore BIRO 1
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

Opened by the two very hip brothers, Kenghow and Kage, behind Singapore menswear label Biro – think the most perfect indigo-dyed denim from Japan and the softest hand-loomed cotton t-shirts – Biro Shouten is a gem of a shop.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore BIRO 2
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

This is where the brothers bring together their concise curration of the very best versions of micro-targeted accessories, homewares, organic home scents, jewellery and clothing, including Mastery handmade small leather goods and Takashi Endo Ceramics.

best multi label fashion accessories shops stores singapore BIRO 3
All images by Niki Bruce, shot on iPhoneX

The store itself is small, but perfect in layout and design – very Japanese in concept and feel. Although it’s located in a somewhat odd area (a very Singapore heartland shopping mall), it’s directly next to the Lavender MRT stop and well worth making the effort to visit.

Biro Shouten is located at Kitchener Complex, Level 3, 809 French Road, Singapore.