Non-gendered jewellery versatile enough to suit every occasion and last forever

Like many people I do love my jewellery; it was always rings for me but earrings — of a sort — came a close second. Unlike my rings which I would change everyday, my earrings pretty much stayed the same, sometimes for years at a time. 

This idea of wearing ‘permanent’ jewellery is a popular concept right now, particularly the idea of having a piece of jewellery practically welded to your body, but while you can remove your everyday pieces many of us don’t so it becomes basically the same thing. 

DISCOVER GENNUU

New Singapore brand Gennuu by local creative Chantelle Huan fits into this new movement. The pieces are simple but stylish, affordable but also sturdy enough to be worn on the daily, or basically ‘permanently’. 

“Gennuu was founded with the intention to create jewellery pieces that are stylish, affordable yet of great quality, versatile enough to suit all occasions while allowing our wearers to be able to express their own personality and vibe,” explains Chantelle.  

The founder and designer of Gennuu, Chantelle Huan

According to Chantelle, the brand name — pronounced ‘gen’ and ‘u’ — is linked to being ‘genuine’ and ‘generational’ with the ‘u’ representing the ‘you’ of the wearer. “At its core, it encompasses two main values that make up its identity: Genuine — a brand that is 100% genuine in what we design and curate – considering intention, function, and style. Generational — a brand that values openness, with hopes to build a community of fashionable go-getters willing to share and live experiences that transcend generations. The ‘U’ in Gennuu represents ‘you’ — Gennuu is a brand that is made for you,” Chantelle explains.

“Since I was young, I have always been interested in fashion and often took on roles such as costume designer for school activities. My interest in fashion also meant a constantly growing jewellery collection,” she says. 

“As time passed, I realised I would only re-wear a fraction of my pieces — often those with colours and styles that were easy to match and stack. 

“This sparked the motivation to create Gennuu. I wanted to reduce the number of pieces people needed to purchase, while retaining and even increasing the number of styles people could wear from those pieces. 

“Hence, Gennuu was born as a brand that emphasises on a core collection of essential pieces, with add-ons that are mixable, stackable and can be worn in multiple styles.”

The new brand has been strongly influenced by Chantelle’s personal style: “My personal style is a mix of classic, hardware pieces as well as more elaborate statement pieces, often in varying tones of silver and gold.”

Chantelle says that she always wears mismatched earrings, a concept that she factored into the design concept for Gennuu, alongside stacking and layering jewellery pieces. 

“One consistent style of mine is to always wear mismatched earrings. I honestly cannot remember the last time I wore the same pair of earrings on both ears! I always pair longer form pieces with shorter forms or studs, and tend to stack my stud piercings. Necklace and chain stacking has also been a consistent style, where I tend to wear at least two necklaces on most occasions.

“This has impacted Gennuu’s designs as well. Most of its pieces are sold as singles to mix and match with other styles, and some designs offer pairs in a mix of silver and gold, instead of the usual all-silver and all-gold options. 

“For necklaces, all its lengths are of a minimum adjustable length, such that they can be worn as shorter necklaces, or as medium-long chains. I [also] have some items coming up that can be combined to be worn as body chains too. 

“At the moment, I’ve been loving wearing Gennuu’s U earring in both gold and silver on one ear, paired with the Nnuu studs on the other, and NU bar on my cartilage piercings,” says Chantelle.

SUSTAINABLE JEWELLERY

Sustainability in fashion is an ongoing conversation, and is also relevant for jewellery brands. Chantelle recently graduated with a Masters in Product Design from Kingston School of Art in London and says that there was a major focus on sustainable design throughout the course. 

“Sustainability has always been a consideration in the design and production of my products. Having gone through projects that work with sustainable processes and materials, I have been connected to ways that look at improving the durability and reusability of products,” Chantelle explains.

“With Gennuu, one of its main motivations was to reduce the quantity of jewellery people need to purchase without compromising on the number of styles they can wear. Gennuu also pays special attention to the quality of its products, which have gone through months of quality checks and testing to ensure they last our wearers for a substantial period of time. 

“The majority of our designs also come in sturdy, classic forms that are more timeless. We also provide a complimentary repair service for our pieces, as we encourage our customers to repair products rather than re-purchase an entirely new piece. Gennuu also offers customers to purchase most of its designs as singular pieces, should they need to replace or mix and match their pairs.

“As we are still a small and growing company, we are taking baby steps towards creating a more sustainable future — but this is definitely in the works. We have been researching how to give back and reduce our carbon footprint as well.”

Designer and founder of Gennuu, Chantelle Huan

Gennuu pieces are produced in South Korea with input from a team in Vietnam. Chantelle chose this option after months of research and testing, looking for producers that met her standards for detailing and quality.

“This meant having to improve my level of Korean – I am taking higher level classes at the moment – in order to better communicate with them. Albeit a little more difficult, the decision to work with them has been a fruitful one,” she explains.

“The brand is also currently looking to work with smaller independent gold and silversmiths, in hopes of supporting small businesses and independent artistes. It’s a tough journey in any design industry, hence we hope that co-supporting each other can help achieve our visions.”

THE FUTURE IS GOLDEN

Chantelle says that her future goals for Gennuu include increasing brand awareness and introducing more people to its unique concept.

“In the long run, I hope for Gennuu to be a brand that is reliable, both in terms of style and quality — a brand that people can look to when wanting to purchase jewellery that encompass all aspects of function, great design and good quality,” she says. 

“Gennuu is a brand that aims for its designs to be inclusive and non-conforming, and we respect and encourage self-expression and individualism, which serves back as inspiration for our brand and designs. As our motto goes: ‘You are the U in Gennuu, and we want Gennuu to be a brand that is made for you’.”

The streamlined design of Gennuu lends itself to being worn by everyone — male, female and non-gendered or gender diverse. The neat shapes of the core pieces like the O Earring, the Nnuu Stud, the Nu Bar Stud and the Luna Necklace can be worn by everyone. All of the pieces are available in either silver or gold. Likewise, the slightly larger earrings like the U Earring and the Chain Earring, can also be worn by everyone, depending on your personal style.

Chantelle has also created a flexible format for shopping and wearing Gennuu pieces: “We provide an option for you to purchase singular pieces in a complimentary palette of gold and silver, allowing you to mix and match, and so you don’t repeat what you already have. We also offer the option of purchasing pairs in a mix of both gold and silver.”

“Our pieces come in forms that are neutral and reliable — simply match our earrings with your favourite pair of everyday studs, or stack our long form pieces across all your piercings.”

Shop Gennuu jewellery online at www.gennuu.com. You can also follow the brand on Instagram at @gennuu_official and on TikTok at @gennuu_official.

Melbourne brand Dominique Healy is ethical, sustainable, elegant and ageless

Elegant, seasonless, and ageless, the work of Melbourne based designer Dominique Healy has a built up a dedicated fan base of customers since she launched her eponymous brand in 2017. 

With 10 years as a fabric wholesaler in both Australia and New Zealand, if there’s one thing the designer is known for, it is high quality, beautiful fabrics. It was this background that was the impetus for the launch of the brand as the designer began stashing and storing the materials she came across. 

Alongside her love for fabric, Healy was also committed to creating clothing that support and promoted local and ethical clothing production, as she writes on her website. The brand’s mission statement clearly shows the designer’s focus: “Trans-seasonal pieces. Released slowly. Made in-house in our Melbourne studio.”

“Each garment is carefully considered and constructed locally from high-quality fabrics, all made to stand the test of time,” states the website.

Elegant, seasonless, ageless

The Dominique Healy aesthetic is a mix of classic shapes like wide-leg pants, pencil skirts, and blouses with textured fabrics and more fashion-forward proportions. She does a spectacular poet-style sleeve. 

It’s also interesting that the designer uses an older fit model front and center in her shoots and lookbooks, clearly welcoming the dollar of the more mature buyer. Equally interesting is that the exact same pieces are shown on both the older, and younger models; again showing a more inclusive attitude. 

While the natural tones of the fabrics – think white, cream, black – give off a somewhat Scandianivan furniture vibe, the slightly bulky fabrics create a rounded, soft texture to the brand’s pieces. 

Healy’s most recent collection was all about matching sets that have the comfortable feel of a sweatsuit but the elegance of a traditional suit due to the use of thick cotton fabrics and classic cuts. 

Ethical and Sustainable Production

The majority of the Dominique Healy garments are made in her Melbourne studio, while the rest is produced at an Melbourne factory that is ethically accredited. 

Healy strongly believes that production needs to be kept local in order to not only support the Australian fashion industry, but she also feels that otherwise, “a part of the magic of the fashion industry could be lost altogether”.

An added benefit of keeping production local is the ability to produce short runs per style, reducing waste, and to also move to a ‘made to order’ model after the initial garments are sold, again ensure there is little to no wasted stock.

The garment patterns are also designed in such a way as to reduce fabric wastage. The brand’s popular Bella Blouse uses 95% of the fabric allowance to make, and Healy continues to work on ways to decrease fabric wastage with all her patterns.

Another way the designer works to be more sustainable, is to use a majority of deadstock fabrics sourced from Japan, Hong Kong, France, Italy, Australia and New Zealand, where her previous life as a fabric wholesales comes in handy.

Linen used for the brand’s classics range is produced by mills that are OEKO-TEX certified, meaning they meet a set of international regulations for the responsible use of chemicals. 

While Healy has obviously created a fashion business that already follows a number of ethical and sustainable processes, the designer states that she will continue to incorporate “more sustainable and earth friendly materials into her collections”.

You can buy Dominique Healy online at dominiquehealy.com, and follow the brand on Instagram at @dominique_healy.

Ankoa, the Australian slow fashion brand ‘celebrating life and all it has to offer’

As the world continues to feel less and less safe, there has been an increase in searches for, and sales of, fashion items that bring a sense of comfort. Nostalgia for the times ‘before’, the golden ages of previous centuries when anything seemed possible, is popping up all over the place. 

Whether it was the 1910s, or the 1970s, the desire for a light, pretty dress made of fine fabrics with lace and floral details is a trend that has come full circle in 2020. Concepts like #cottagecore, handcrafts, handmade, natural materials, floral prints, delicate detailing and classical, forgiving silhouettes can be seen in many designers’ work. 

The Strawberry Midi Dress by Lirika Matoshi is perhaps the most famous dress of the year; so famous that popular social media influencers are making their own. The search for ‘prairie dress’ gets you 55,200,000 results on Google. 

What’s really interesting is that the bulk of these results are not for major fashion brands, but from small independent designers, or even home sewists, who are looking to create clothes that are not only pretty, but comforting and designed for real women to wear. Clothing that is a bulwark against the stresses of a world pandemic and all that it brings. 

All of this means that designers who have always created seasonless, trendless, slow fashion clothing are coming into their own. One of these is Australian designer Lucy Blair with her brand Ankoa. 

Based in rural Australia, Lucy studied fashion at RMIT TAFE and worked in the commercial side of the fashion industry for a number of years, learning what she needed to know about how the market and industry operates in Australia. She also ran her own small, independent brand at the same time “making plenty of mistakes in what was a very different landscape, online shopping was only just starting out at that point”. 

Lucy admits that while she loved what she was doing, she also started to see the cracks in the industry’s walls. “This was a time where I was very much captivated by the glamour of the industry and at this point ethical fashion wasn’t something that was really spoken about and was not something that was ever part of my curriculum studying,” explains Lucy.

Eventually she moved back to the country, drawn to a slower pace of life and a more considered way of producing fashion. 

“Ankoa was something that I gradually started, around six years ago working part time and then once I had children found a whole new drive and passion to create,” says Lucy. 

“The initial concept for Ankoa came from a love for hand blocked Indian cotton fabric. The fabric is created by carving wooden blocks and then dipping them in dye to create a unique print by hand.”

“I fell in love with the beauty of this ancient art and wanted to find a way to support and celebrate it. Initially I was going to make men’s shirts but ended up crossing over to women’s wear as that was my real passion. 

“Once that happened it became about ‘celebrating life and all it has to offer’, making pieces that pull you further into moments so in terms of slow I guess that was always an underlying component but has developed further, as has the aesthetic.”

Lucy’s style is a mix of romanticism, traditional femininity, and a sense of womanhood. Motherhood made a major impact not only on Lucy’s thoughts about creating slower, more sustainable fashion, but also on her designs. Many of her dresses and tops are designed to make breastfeeding easier, for example. 

Rich colours and delicate prints on cotton mix with soft fabrics like velvet in her Winter collection; shapes are flattering with added volume for easy movement. These are very pretty clothes, with details like ruffles and lace that hark back to either the 70s hippie dresses or the floaty shirtwaists of the Edwardian era. 

Each garment is a little bit different due to the use of hand printing using blocks in the traditional Indian style. The production runs are also small ensuring there is little to no waste, creating garments that are meant to last, and be handed down like heirlooms.

The battle for Sustainability

These days words like ‘sustainability’, ‘ethical consumerism’, ‘slow fashion’ etc are thrown around with abandon, and in many cases with little understanding. ‘Everyone knows’ that the fashion industry has to become more ‘sustainable’, but few brands understand what this actually means, let alone know how to implement the required changes. 

For a small, independent brand like Ankoa, the issue of sustainability is multilayered; a battle to continuously improve. 

“In terms of sustainability, so much has changed in the last six years and it is something to celebrate but has also been a battle,” explains Lucy.  “When I say battle, I grew up believing that we could do anything, be anything but suddenly what I wanted to do seemed so damaging and for a long time I felt really lost and unsure of what to do. 

“So yes, [sustainability] has always been a focus because I made the decision to do it, but do it in a way that I felt comfortable, so that the people who I work with are paid properly, making very small quantities of pieces with a focus on quality and natural fibres, and hoping that the Ankoa woman chooses one dress over 20 cheap throw away dresses to last. 

“The focus on sustainability is something that continues to change, I am not perfect and there are still so many improvements to be made but it is something that I feel strongly about as the brand grows.”

While admitting that being a sustainable and ethical fashion brand is always a work in progress, Lucy does feel positive about the future of the industry. 

“Given that even ten/fifteen years ago, sustainability was not really something that was much of a consideration, I am excited and hopeful for the future. I think that there have been lots of positive changes in the last five years in particular, so I can only imagine how many great things might happen in the next five to come,” says Lucy.

“I also hope that people’s thinking is slowly changing and people want to know what the story is behind the clothes and also making conscious choices opting for pieces to wear for years rather than once or twice and throw away. I am also really excited about the future of recycled fashion/fabric and feel this is an area that has huge potential for growth.”

Positivity in the Pandemic

It has to be said that the retail industry, particularly the fashion retail space, has been massively impacted by the Coronavirus pandemic. While a few items like sweatpants and masks might be doing huge sales online, for creative fashion brands things have been less rosy. After all, who needs a ballgown right now? 

However, smaller, more nimble brands like Ankoa have been able to react quickly to market changes, and have also seen customers’ behaviour change as well. 

“I believe the pandemic has highlighted a few different things. It has caused many of us to slow down and focus on what’s important and how little we need, I hope this also fuels the desire to choose quality over quantity,” says Lucy. 

“I would also love to see some more manufacturing options here in Australia, I love supporting and working with my team in India who I hope to continue to work with but I would also very much love to do some more work here too.”

Ankoa was naturally impacted by the arrival of Covid19, says Lucy: “When things first started I went from being consistent to absolute crickets.” However she also saw a slow return to sales with fluctuations based on newly released items. She says that she remains nervous – Lucy had thought she might have to close the brand earlier on – but now hopes that things will continue to get better.

Onwards and upwards … 

While Lucy remains passionate about continuing Ankoa, particularly in relation to supporting her current team and continuing her love of traditional Indian hand block printing, she would also like to be able to produce her garments in Australia too.

“… Before children I was making a lot myself but for now it is near impossible having little people around. Once my littlies are off to school then I hope I am able to get back to making in some way and to potentially find a way to produce within my local community, in a way that has a positive impact,” says Lucy.

“I would like to keep the brand relatively small, it’s a business of heart and not something that I want to become huge and unmanageable, I would like to find a way to just live a relatively quiet life with family and enjoy creating in a way that is helpful and sustainable.”

You can buy Ankoa online at www.ankoa.com.au and follow the brand on Instagram at @ankoaau

Handcrafted, sustainable artisan knitwear from Amano by Lorena Laing

Lorena Laing is a Melbourne ‘fashion artist’ who launched Amano by Lorena Laing as a way to share her handcrafted artisan-style knitwear with the public. The brand is all about ethical and sustainable knitwear, and works with one of the last knitting mills still operating in Australia. 

Every product is handcrafted in Australia, and the whole company is dedicated to working with local producers, artisans, craftspeople and artists. The brand also locally sources its materials, manufacturing and packaging locally, stating it feels a “responsibility to preserve and pass on [ageing artisanal skills] to future generations”. 

Due to its artisanal nature, Amano creates clothing items that are more like bespoke, one-off artworks. The design concept is based around the individuality of handmade production, and the core concept is that no two pieces are exactly the same. The overall style will be the same, but the colours, details and specifics will be different. 

Traditional production techniques like loom weaving, crochet and needle knitting are combined with the small run manufacturing of the traditional knitting mill to create the various garments. Natural materials like alpaca and high quality wool are used to ensure that the pieces last. 

“The Alpaca fibre I work with is local and ethically sourced from Peru. The skilled artisans who weave and knit my designs are locals and it is important to me to focus on keeping my collections local and one hundred percent natural,” writes Laing.

Amano is very much about ‘slow fashion’. The brand wants the garments to be used, worn, and handed down, ideally to become family heirlooms.

“Amano takes great pride in hand-crafting its pieces with locally sourced materials, have zero waste and are crafted and packaged locally. We are aware of our carbon footprint, of our struggling manufacturing industry and our aging artisanal skills. We feel a responsibility to preserve these and ensure they exist for future generations.” 

To help with controlling waste, for the brand’s ready-to-wear capsule collection Laing uses CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software to map out the garments in minute detail to reduce wastage. 

While there is definitely a handmade ‘craftiness’ to the Amano aesthetic, you also see the influence of Japanese knitwear designers like Yuko Shimizu and Reiko Kuwamura in the voluminous shapes, as well as early Rick Owens open-work knits, and even the delicacy of the work by textile artists like Chris Motley and Gjertrud Hals.

The use of muted colours – neutrals, blacks, greys and warm browns – ensures that these garments are not trend focused. The oversized shapes also mean that Amano knitwear suits all body types and sizes. 

Amano by Lorena Laing garments are not cheap, they are handmade after all, but they are not as expensive as you would imagine. One of these knits will last you for years, so the cost per wear is definitely worth the investment. 

You can shop Amano by Lorena Laing online at lorenalaing.com, and once the coronavirus restrictions are over you can visit the atelier located at 631 Rathdowne Street Carlton North, Victoria, Australia. The designer also holds one-on-one styling sessions where you get a personal introduction to the garments from Laing, and you can also commission bespoke garments.

Meet the finalists: Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition

Singapore Stories is an annual fashion design contest organised by the Textile and Fashion Federation (TaFF), and this year despite the impact of Coronavirus is on track to choose a final winner on 22 October, 2020. 

All five of the finalists will hold a runway show on the same date at the Asian Civilisations Museum, where the judges will choose the winner who will be included in the annual Contemporary Gallery at the Asian Civilisations Museum, and be able to launch a collaboration with one of Asia’s top multi-label fashion retailer SocietyA. There will also be an opportunity for a showcase at Paris Fashion Week for the holder of the Singapore Fashion Award.

As with every year, there was a theme for the designers to work around: Reimagining the History and Creating the Future, based on the idea of “examining the past and interpreting the future of design”.

The five finalists:

Nude Femme by Adelyn Putri 

finalists Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition NUDE FEMME

Described as “feminine, timeless, versatile and luxurious”, Nude Femme is a sexy ready-to-wear brand that is made by hand in Singapore and around the region, with a focus on supporting women. The brand adheres to the principles of Fair Trade, Fair Wages, Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) and Garment without Guilt (GWG) standards. 

CYC by Cara Chiang 

finalists Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition CYC

A family-owned tailoring business, CYC was established in 1935, and is best known for its affordable, quality tailored shirts. Cara Chiang is a family scion who is involved with creating new concepts for the brand. The brand has a strong Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) programme including, recently, creating and distribution of 300,000 Masks for Migrants in Singapore after the outbreak of Coronavirus.

Carol Chen 

Founder of Covetella, a designer dress rental service, Carol Chen is using the opportunity of the Singapore Stories competition to relaunch herself as a designer of her own namesake brand. Her design aesthetic fits into the world of glamour that the former beauty queen knows well. 

Martha Who by Mette Hartman 

finalists Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition MARTHA WHO

Using traditional batik, Martha Who by Mette Hartman is a sustainable resort wear brand that features hand dyed silk caftans in jewel tones. Very Bali luxe. The pieces are hand-crafted by artisans then sewn by hand and embellished in Singapore.

Nida Shay by Nida Tahir Shaheryar 

finalists Singapore Stories 2020 fashion design competition NIDA SHAY

A glamorous womenswear brand, Nida Shay has been around for a few years and features the substantial use of artisanal hand embroidery created in the rural areas of Pakistan. The designer believes in supporting traditional artisans, with a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) programme that provides a living wage, educational ventures and vocational training to support the wider community of craftspeople in Pakistan.

For more information about TaFF’s Singapore Stories contest, go to singapore-stories.com.

 

Goth in the Sun: Australian designer Gail Sorronda

In my recent Instagram browsing I have been coming across a lot of interesting fashion brands, some I know of, and others that are new to me. 

One of these is Gail Sorronda, a Brisbane-based designer whose eponymous brand has been worn by a bunch of famous people like Winona Ryder and Lorde. Sorronda was also apparently described by no less than Karl Lagerfeld as “one to watch”. 

All this information was gleaned from various Australian media reports as unfortunately Sorronda was unavailable for an interview, as she is “just really selective with interviews” according to her husband and business partner Atlas Harwood, who is also famous for playing bass for post-punk brood band, Gazar Strips.

Still, despite the lack of access, and the dearth of information on the brand’s website, I’m still excited enough about Sorronda’s work to spend time writing up this article.  

Sorronda launched her label in 2005 at Australian Fashion Week in Sydney, with an aesthetic that is “ethereal, dark, romantic” according to the designer in an interview published earlier this year. Her collections are named for her obsessions – Holy Water, Oh My Goth! and Angel at My Table (her graduate collection) – and obviously swing towards the gothic. Which, of course, is why I was so attracted to the brand in the first place. 

After launching in Australia, the designer worked in Paris from 2008, where her work was chosen to be featured by Dolce & Gabbana to feature in its Milan boutique, before returning to Brisbane – the capital of Australia’s sunshine state, Queensland – and establishing an independent boutique and atelier. Sorrondo’s penchant for the theatrical has also seen her work with Queensland Ballet and Expressions Dance Company designing costumes. 

While there isn’t an obvious sustainable or ethical focus in her production, Sorrondo does fit neatly into the Slow Fashion Movement.

“I prefer for pieces to be timeless. That is how I value good design. I think major trends can echo what is happening in society at the time just like music and other modes of the arts can. I just have a problem with fashion’s ceaseless cycle of replacement operating on planned obsolescence, artificially inducing trends, in a unsustainable and economically insatiable way,” Sorronda said in a recent interview.   

The brand’s garments are manufactured in Australia for the most part, from a range of luxury, internationally sourced fabrics. The designer is also in favour of supporting local artisans, as she stated in that same interview that supporting ‘local’ meant “thoughtfully buying locally designed and made products”.

As for the garments themselves, there is a definite hint of Japanese cult Lolita styling in the most recent collection – black and white, bonnets, capes of lace and voluminous sleeves all echo the mid-Victorian era stylings of the genre. 

There is, however, a delicacy to Sorronda’s pieces due to the quality of the construction and lightness of the fabrics, particularly when combined with a sense of transparency that is visible in the garments that bare more skin. 

Yes, this is another brand that would fit quite neatly into the #cottagecore aesthetic, but I prefer to think of it as a softer, more romantic version of Victorian Goth; plus the garments in white and at shorter lengths make it more appropriate for warmer climates.  

You can buy Gail Sarronda online at www.gailsorronda.com

 

Traditional with a Pop twist: Korean sustainable fashion brand Danha

I’ve never been shy about my love for Kpop … yes, I’m a YG stan from way back! Which is why I gleefully watched the latest video from the entertainment company’s girl group BlackPink with eyes wide open to spot the latest Korean fashion trends. 

Korean sustainable fashion brand Danha 5

And there, front and center were some fabulous traditional Hanbok-with-a-twist garments. I recognised the fabrics, prints and decorative details from all those Kdramas we all watch, but teamed with boots, short-shorts and minis, this was definitely not something Queen Seondeok would wear!

I was already following a number of other Korean brands that were working with traditional fabrics and clothing shapes on Instagram, but these garments were a cut above with the attention to detailing and how modern they looked. Eventually I tracked down the brand behind the looks and discovered Danha. 

Danha is not only a brand that is focused on creating a modern version of traditional Korean clothing, it is also a sustainable and ethical fashion brand – not something that is common in the Korean fashion industry. 

The brand describes itself as “sustainable ethical ‘slow fashion’ rather than ‘fast fashion’ that causes global warming, [and] will contribute to improving the world’s environmental problems”. 

Named after the designer Danha, the brand has always been about two things – celebrating traditional garment heritage in Korea, and being environmentally responsible. The brand works with organic and recycled fabrics, upcycles fabric offcuts – it creates gorgeous foldable shopping totes – and using the traditional flat-cut method of Korean garment design, actively reduces fabric waste. Danha also produces limited runs of stock and will create made-to-measure garments.

WATCH THE VIDEO: 

Designer Danha discusses how her clothes ended up on BlackPink

The garments are mostly created out of organic cotton, and eco-fabrics made from recycled plastic bottles. Silk and an eco-friendly tweed is also used for some items, and the brand continues to experiment with creating new sustainable fabrics. Their organic cotton complies with GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), and is grown in a three year process with no chemical fertilizers, plus only natural starch and wax are used during the spinning process. 

Like many brands these days, Danha also uses recycled and biodegradable packaging, and is in the process of trialing an upcycled paper shipping box made of recycled materials.

Another part of the brand’s ethos is its ethical production methods, describing its sewists as “free workers who can choose what they want to do”, in a collegiate workshop environment where all the garments are handmade, “working comfortably together, respecting each other”.

From the customers’ perspective Danha is also remarkably inclusive unlike other Korean fashion brands which historically have had issues with sizing, creating only small sizes and with little consideration of non-tiny shoppers. Danha, on the other hand, is quite inclusive. The brand’s ‘free size’ ranges from Korean sizes 44 to 66 (that’s XS to M on the international size chart), wrap skirts go up to a 35in waist. Garments also come in sizes that are equal to an international L, and the brand will also customise garments to order in any size you like.

Those are all the sustainable and ethical requirements on the current hit list, but what about the clothes? 

Danha’s aesthetic fits neatly into the growing #cottagecore movement of light layers, ruffles, soft voluminous shapes and an ethereal, fairy vibe. Think drifting around in the moonlight waiting for your prince to arrive while simultaneously discovering a herbal cure for cancer, but in Seoul. These are pretty, pretty clothes with a distinctly Asian traditional take. 

Should you wear them if you aren’t Korean, or Asian? Yes! If you love the look it doesn’t matter where you come from, just make sure you don’t do something stupid like add ‘yellow face’ makeup or hair.  

Shop Danha online at en.danhaseoul.com

WATCH THE BLACKPINK VIDEO THAT STARTED IT ALL …

Erik Yvon: Colourful, ethical, sustainable

BLOG Australia fashion label Erik Yvon MAIN

Ethical and sustainable fashion, like all trends and styles, has begun to settle into a series of expected norms; organic cotton, neutral and natural shades, prairie dresses, cable knits and a somewhat ‘earth mother’ vibe. 

But it doesn’t have to be that way. The work of Melbourne-based designer Erik Yvon is a fabulous example of design overcoming the expected norms. Yvon uses bright colours, strong prints and unique textures inspired by his Mauritian origins, to create clothes that are joyful, inspired by art and culture, and dedicated to sustainable and ethical production.

“As an independent label we firmly believe in making a change and strengthening our local industry by keeping our production, onshore, transparent and ethical,” writes Yvon. “We are mindful of the footprint we have on our surroundings and try to have a positive impact on the community within our supply chain.”

The brand stocks limited runs of different pieces, and produced made-to-order so as to reduce waste. Yvon also produces all of his products in Melbourne, supporting local industry businesses and working with various communities.

“We pride ourselves on being made in Melbourne and work closely with local suppliers,” writes Yvon on the brand’s website, listing the local businesses they work with.

The Erik Yvon look is an interesting mix of streetwear comfort, and over the top avant garde use of colour, texture and pattern. There is a strong gender neutral thread running through the brand, particularly in its use of separates – tops and pants that can be worn by guys, girls, anyone. The style is also relatively size inclusive, with generous cuts and the use of volume creating flattering shapes for most body types.

There is a touch of the 90s in the brand’s designs too – particularly the use of legging type trousers, tights and black and white geometric patterns. Strong colours like neon yellow and hot pink are softened by the use of more natural shades, but the feel is one of sunny days and parties on the beach. 

To shop Erik Yvon, go to erikyvon.com

Su: Slow fashion with Scandinavian style

Finnish brand Su is a fashion and homewares brand that is part of the Slow Fashion movement. The brand creates limited pieces in sustainable fabrics like linen, organic cotton and merino wool. 

The style is very ‘Finnish’; shapes are oversized and non-gendered in many ways, the colours are muted and natural, and the styling is simple and again, natural. 

There is something very Japanese about much Finnish design – there are correspondences in concepts like wabi-sabi, minimal-natural, and muted palettes between the two countries’ aesthetics. The Japanese like Finnish design, and the Finns like Japanese design. 

Su’s design philosophy is “to make modern, custom-made clothes in small batches”, with an ethos that is “restrained, relaxed and respectful of materials”. Again, all things that resonate with lovers of Japanese design.

Everything is designed and handmade in Finland – from interior textiles to the clothing collections. The latest collection – Summer 2020 – is about loose fits, large pockets, dropped sleeves, shades of gray and blue, with white and black. There are also pieces in an undyed linen. 

There is a ‘slowness’ about the collection that’s not only down to how it is sourced and made – 100% certified natural materials, produced in an ethical way – but also in the feel. It’s about long, lazy summers in the woods and fields of Finland surrounded by some of the country’s 100,000 lakes.

Su Slow fashion with Scandinavian style 10

“We use Öko-Tex 100 certified natural materials from Finnish fabric wholesalers. Flax is produced in the EU or the Baltic countries. Merino wool is knitted in Finland. The cotton we use is organically grown and produced in the EU in southern Europe,” states the Su website.

Su also produces homewares. Made of linen, there are cushion covers, bath towels, hand towels, aprons, eco bags, and napkins. Again, the fabric is all natural, the colours are muted, and there is a practicality about the designs like tea towels with buttons so you can hook them easily. 

Although you can’t currently buy Su online unless you live in Europe, you can try your luck by contacting the brand’s stockist Somia Living by emailing miia@somialiving.fi. If you really want something from the online store, try emailing info@sunnuntaipuoti.com and organising your own shipping.

Read more about Finnish fashion: Review: A focus on fashion from Finland … the next big thing?

Read more about Slow Fashion: Small but mighty: 6 emerging sustainable Australian fashion brands.

6 sustainable Australian swimwear brands to discover

Yes. Australia is the home of budgie smugglers, togs and swimmers. Just about everyone, no matter their age or size, has a pair of bathers in the cupboard. Some of us have entire swimwear wardrobes of up to hundreds of pairs. 

But, swimwear – particularly the fabrics they’re made from – are not particularly environmentally friendly. Most swimmers are basically made of plastic. 

With most of us now becoming aware of the issues surrounding sustainable clothing production, the need for sustainable swimwear has become a bit of a hot topic. 

There are a number of smaller Australian brands that have focused on creating swimwear in a more sustainable, or eco-friendly way – they use recycled nylon, or nylon made from recycled sea plastic, or reuse fabric waste. In their different ways, with their different styles, these brands are filling a gap in the market.

Camp Cove Swim

If you love colours and prints, Camp Cove Swim is a brand you’ll get excited about. The cuts are forgiving with high-waist bottoms and supportive tops in pretty graphic patterns and a range of colours from muted neutrals to bright primary shades. 

sustainable Australian swimwear brands CAMP COVE SWIM 1

The lining of the swimsuits are made of Econyl – a regenerated nylon made from fishing nets and landfill waste – and the prints are done using the sublimation printing process that uses no water at all to dye fabric. 

The brand also manufactures all their garments in a small town on the coast of New South Wales, and uses in-house scraps for their samples, and they on-sell their excess fabrics to local fabric stores. 

Check out the brand at www.campcoveswim.com

Salt Gypsy

This is a swimwear brand that’s all about surfing. The style and designs are functional – think rash tops, surf leggings, high-waisted bottoms, supportive tops and waterproof pouches – they also produce surfboards. 

The garments are made from Econyl, they use biodegradable packaging and produce the pieces in Australia using responsible manufacturing practices. 

Salt Gypsy started out in 2012 with the aim to develop the surf leggings for women surfing; and continues to be focused on creating a closed loop production system using ‘repolymerised’ waste materials and supporting the slow fashion movement.

Check out the brand at www.saltgypsy.com

Shade Swim

If you’re as scared of the harmful rays of the sun as I am, you need to check out Shadeswim. The brand was created by a young mother who suffered from skin cancer, and who wanted to create swimwear for adult women that is more covered up, and with a high level of sun protection. 

In Australia it is basically a law that children now have to wear full-coverage swimwear ie. rash tops etc, and full-coverage hats with neck protection at schools and public swimming events.

Shade Swim’s designs are not trendy, but they are comfortable and flattering for women of all ages and body types, they protect your skin and are made from a type of sustainable Lycra that is UPF 50+.

Check out the brand at www.shadeswim.com.au

Re-Swim Club

Yes, you can upcycle and reuse swimwear fabric according to Re-Swim Club, a swimwear brand that creates its garments out of what would otherwise be considered waste fabric. 

sustainable Australian swimwear brands RESWIM 1

The brand sources designer surplus, recycled materials, remnants and off-cuts to create limited run swimwear. All the pieces are hand cut and hand sewn to make the most of every little scrap of fabric. 

The swimsuit cuts come in classic styles like tank two-pieces and simple one-piece malliots, and since the fabrics change all the time, there are limited numbers of each piece. Interestingly the brand categorises its products by size – so you shop your size first and then see what is available. This makes sense considering the irregular amounts of each particular fabric. 

Check out the brand at www.reswimclub.com.au

Le Buns

Yes, this swimwear is designed to make your bum look good. If you’re looking for something a little sexy and love solid colour swimwear, check out Le Buns. 

These swimwear designs are a bit more on trend than some of the others, but there is a classic feel that makes sure you will have longevity from your swimsuit. The cuts of the bottoms are also a bit more revealing than more covered-up brands, for those who want to show off a bit more. 

The brand pays attention to its supply chain, using suppliers with sustainability and transparency credentials for ethical production. Le Buns also uses biodegradable packaging or home compost grade mailer bags for its online shipping, and even gives you a free wash bag so you take care of your swimwear in the washing machine so it lasts longer and you don’t need to replace it. 

Check out the brand at lebuns.com.au

Shapes in the Sand

This eco conscious swimwear brand is all about Australian nature, from the prints to the styles. Using sustainable and recycled fabrics, Shapes in the Sand produces limited runs – two or so prints per season – in a range of cuts that have been designed to suit all ages and body types. 

Like many Australian swimwear brands, every collection comes with a rash top – the cover-up of the Aussie beach – and different styles of bottoms depending on how much, or how little you want to show. The prints are based on the natural environment, and the brand’s models are more natural than fake. 

All manufacturing is done in Australia, with the aim of supporting a circular economy; the fabrications come from bio-based (plant) materials and recycled nylon from fishing nets and even carpet fluff! All their packaging is plastic free, and Shapes in the Sand also collaborates with a variety of non-profit environmental and cultural organisations.

Check out the brand at www.shapesinthesand.com.au

If you’re interested in supporting Australian fashion, follow @fashion_revival_runway to discover more cool, independent Aussie brands.